Some shops are just shops. Bahadourian is something else entirely. Founded in 1929 by an Armenian family and still going strong on Rue Villeroy in Lyon’s Guillotière district, this is the kind of place that gets passed down through generations, not just within the family that runs it, but within the families that shop there. Grandmothers bring their grandchildren, chefs swing by before service, and first-timers walk in for one thing and leave with a bag full of things they didn’t know they needed.
If you’re in Lyon and you care about food, really care about it, Bahadourian is not optional. It’s one of the city’s true gastronomic landmarks, and it happens to be completely unpretentious about it.
The Experience
Walking into Bahadourian feels like stumbling into Ali Baba’s cave, except everything is edible and most of it is very affordable. The space is generous and sensory-rich: towering sacks of spices, shelves stacked with jars of preserved goods, bulk bins of dried fruits and nuts, and display cases of freshly made oriental pastries that are almost impossible to walk past without stopping.
The smells hit you in waves. First the spices: warm, earthy, complex. Then something sweeter from the pastry section. Then the herbs and teas. It builds into a single, layered scent that’s impossible to describe accurately but immediately makes you hungry.
The aisles are busy in the best possible way, filled with a genuinely diverse crowd of locals. People picking up tabbouleh for lunch, regulars restocking their spice drawer, and newcomers doing what everyone does on their first visit: wandering slowly with wide eyes, picking things up, reading labels, putting them down, and then picking them up again. The staff are warm and knowledgeable, and they’re used to helping people find things that don’t exist anywhere else in Lyon.
What Not to Miss
The spice wall
Over 100 varieties, and that’s not an exaggeration. Za’atar, ras el hanout, sumac, and rare Middle Eastern blends you won’t find in any standard supermarket sit alongside more familiar Provençal herbs and global staples. Take your time here. Smell everything. The staff are happy to talk you through combinations and uses, and it’s genuinely one of the better culinary education experiences Lyon has to offer, for free.
The traiteur counter
Fresh tabbouleh, hummus, falafel, stuffed vine leaves, and honey-drizzled oriental pastries including baklava and gazelle horns are made and rotated regularly. This is perfect if you want something to eat on the spot or grab for a picnic by the Rhône. The pastries in particular are exceptional, and at prices that will make you double-check you heard correctly.
Dried fruits, nuts, and bulk goods
The bulk section is a proper highlight. Pistachios, dates, apricots, figs, muscovado sugar, and a rotating selection of items that shift with the season. Mix your own combinations, stock up for a recipe, or just eat a date while you shop. Nobody will judge you.
Go on a weekday morning
The shop opens at 8 AM and weekday mornings are the sweet spot: freshest stock, most attentive staff, and significantly fewer people than the weekend rush. If you want to browse properly and have a real conversation about what you’re buying, a Tuesday or Wednesday morning is your best bet.
What Locals and Regulars are Saying
Bahadourian has the kind of loyal following that only comes from decades of doing things right. The reviews are enthusiastic, specific, and genuinely affectionate.
I’m almost glad this shop isn’t in my neighbourhood and that it’s practically an expedition to get there, because for me, this place is heavenly. In terms of tea. Seeds. Henna. Spices. Halloumi. Pappadums. Za’atar… In short, going there fills me with immense joy, and just talking about it makes me want to go because it’s been so long, and I can’t stand it anymore.
Malaika R. from Lyon, writing on Yelp
I went back to Bahadourian this afternoon for a quick visit, and what a treat! It was impossible to resist the wide variety of products and the very reasonable prices. In the end, I left with some delicious rose and strawberry Turkish delight (€12.50 per kilo), a gazelle horn pastry (€1.75 each), and stuffed vine leaves (€0.30 each). If you’re ever near Guillotière, be sure to stop by!
May B. from Lyon, writing on Yelp
I love it! It’s a shop where I can get all the spices, nuts and dried fruits that I need for my Christmas cake. They also have the really dark, rich muscovado sugar. The spice selection is huge and you can also find all kinds of jams, jellies and chutneys. Lots of different teas also.
Nat H., a Local Guide on Google
I was so happy to find this place! Especially since I was homesick, they sell a lot of products you wouldn’t find in a typical French supermarket. A lot of Middle Eastern foods and products. Very reasonably priced, and the staff is very accommodating.
Sandra Burnichon, a Local Guide on Google
Few social media posts
Know Before You Go
Address and opening hours
Bahadourian is at 20 Rue Villeroy, Place Djebraïl Bahadourian, 69003 Lyon. You can reach them at +33 4 78 60 32 10, and there’s more to explore at bahadourian.com. The shop is open Monday to Saturday from 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM and is closed on Sundays.
Website: Bahadourian
Direction: Google Maps
Getting there
Metro Line D to Guillotière is a one-minute walk away, it genuinely doesn’t get more convenient than that. Trams also serve the area well. Street parking is limited and the neighbourhood is busy, so public transit or arriving by bike is the far easier option.
Nearby landmarks
You’re in the Guillotière district, one of Lyon’s most culturally diverse and food-rich neighbourhoods. The famous Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse covered market is nearby, as are the walkways along the Rhône River, both well worth building into the same outing. A morning that starts at Bahadourian, continues to the Halles, and finishes with a walk along the Rhône is a very good morning indeed.
Nearly a century in, Bahadourian is still exactly what Lyon needs it to be: generous, unpretentious, and full of things that make cooking more interesting. Whether you’re a professional chef, a passionate home cook, or just someone who wandered in from the street, you’ll leave with something good. Probably several things. Budget accordingly.
